Art Nouveau refers to a style of jewelry favoring a
free flowing, elaborately curved style that was a radical departure from the Victorian
era. The Art Nouveau period was popular from
the 1890s until 1910. Art
Nouveau designers were influenced by nature and subsequently gave organic shape and life
to jewelry. Jewelry often combined inexpensive
gemstones and other materials. Some of the finest
designs from this period featured elaborate enameling.
This approach was particularly effective when depicting insect wings or landscapes. Japanese influences are seen in designs. The female face and body was often the subject of
interpretation. Other favorite motifs include
dragonflies, butterflies, snakes, peacocks and mythical creatures. Irises, poppies, water lilies and vines likewise
are part of the repertoire of Art Nouveau.
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In the United States the Art Nouveau movement
was commercialized in die stamped relief designs. Typical
motifs were womens faces with flowing hair and flowers. Tiffany and Co. and Marcus & Co. produced
beautify enameled and gemstone set Art Nouveau jewelry comparable with the finest of the
European artists.